Tips and tricks for planing techniques?

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Escape from the Scooter J

Feb 12, 2025
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Good day, everyone! I just wanted to ask if there are pros or seasoned woodcrafters here? I’m having a hard time about planing and I need some solid advice that can help me throughout this journey of mine lol!

I’m stuck and having issues on softwoods and reclaimed lumber, issues after issues like tear-out, chatter, and uneven surfaces. I’ve been using a #4 plane, checking for grain direction, sharpen it to the best of my skill, yet I’m not satisfied with its workings and I don’t know why. It feels like it is just skating and not cutting.

I don’t know what else to do, can anyone give an advice? Even just simple techniques, tips, setup, or whatever comes to your mind! I just need suggestions. 🥲
 
Wow, I admire that you stick with hand tools! My suggestion is to check your chipbreaker setup and blade depth – don’t make it too deep or too shallow. Last advice is to check the sole if it is levelled properly – especially if you have cheap planes, they’re sometime uneven even brand-new ones.
 
I’m stuck and having issues on softwoods and reclaimed lumber, issues after issues like tear-out, chatter, and uneven surfaces. I’ve been using a #4 plane, checking for grain direction, sharpen it to the best of my skill, yet I’m not satisfied with its workings and I don’t know why. It feels like it is just skating and not cutting.
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Skating, huh??? I think I know what this means. Check your blade if it is sharp enough to shave hair from your arm, if not, then it is not well sharpened. Sometimes, they might feel sharp enough but in reality, they’re really not. Sharp them enough that if you stick your arm hair they will be cut.
 
How bout skewing the plane? There so many benefits like; lowers the effective cutting angle, control on tear-out, and can give you tremendous help with difficult grains. Hope this helps!
 
Have you tried cherry or poplar? These two woods are more predictable compared to softwoods. It’s better to practice on these two woods. Avoid also Pine and Fir, because they’re also type of softwood that’s looks deceiving at first.
 
Have you tried cherry or poplar? These two woods are more predictable compared to softwoods. It’s better to practice on these two woods. Avoid also Pine and Fir, because they’re also type of softwood that’s looks deceiving at first.
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Thanks for the tip! I might buy some poplar later for practice, though I would also consider cherry. Great help, man!
 
First, make sure your chipbreaker is really close to the edge – 1/64” or less to be precise, for you to avoid tear-out.

Second, check your plane iron if it is cambered a little when doing rough jobs – this way, it’ll keep corners from digging and will add a smoother pass generally.

Third and last, not all woodworkings needs to be rough, be gentle with this wood. Just let the plane glide by itself and the blade do its work. Just be sure that your blades are very sharp.
 
Just wanted to make sure about reclaimed wood? Is this wood from old constructions? Full of nails, dirt, and whatnot??? Are you for real, dude? 😲
 
Second, check your plane iron if it is cambered a little when doing rough jobs – this way, it’ll keep corners from digging and will add a smoother pass generally.
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Cambering! What a brilliant one! Used to get track lines every pass – remembered it vividly! A very brilliant tip!
 
Wow, I admire that you stick with hand tools! My suggestion is to check your chipbreaker setup and blade depth – don’t make it too deep or too shallow. Last advice is to check the sole if it is levelled properly – especially if you have cheap planes, they’re sometime uneven even brand-new ones.
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Oh, soles! Right! Haven’t checked them for ages. I think my blade depth is also an issue, maybe I need to back the blade up a little bit, might be that I’m too aggressive, I dunno.
 
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