is the speed control PCB on these usually just a triac and a pot or is there proper feedback? curious how they handle the slow speeds without bogging
Getting into a Kenwood food processor base, anything tricky?
- Thread starter Thomas Martinez
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is the speed control PCB on these usually just a triac and a pot or is there proper feedback? curious how they handle the slow speeds without bogging
Triac and pot on the ones I've seen, no feedback. That said they bog down at slow speeds with a heavy load because its just phase chopping the motor without using a tacho.
did one last month switch was definately the issue, replaced for like 2 quid off ebay and its been fine since. Bottom access was all i needed didnt have to touch the top
^^ this is the realistic answer. For most switch jobs bottom is enough. Interlock work needs the top off
unrelated but i miss the old kenwood chef from the 70s. Built like a tank. Moddern stuff is plasticky rubbish
unrelated but i miss the old kenwood chef from the 70s. Built like a tank. Moddern stuff is plasticky rubbish
the chef is a stand mixer not a food processor mate
the chef is a stand mixer not a food processor mate
i know what it is, im making a point about build quality
i know what it is, im making a point about build quality
build quality is fair but the chef is A901 had a few issues with the grease in the gearbox drying out and brushes wearing down. Not the most perfect product but well made.
can a thermal fuse be tested in circuit or do you have to lift one leg? sorry for the basic question im still learning
can a thermal fuse be tested in circuit or do you have to lift one leg? sorry for the basic question im still learning
In circuit is fine to test the thermal fuse with a multimeter, should read near 0 ohms. Should be an open circuit if the fuse is broken. If the multimeter measures to infinity its broken. If not then yeah lift one leg.
thermal fuses on these are usually 184 or 192 degrees, write down the number before you replace it, dont just grab a random one
thermal fuses on these are usually 184 or 192 degrees, write down the number before you replace it, dont just grab a random one
^ and dont solder them either. Crimp or the original spade connectors. The heat from soldering the fuse could easily pop the new one immediately. Ive made that mistake twice with these machines
^ and dont solder them either. Crimp or the original spade connectors. The heat from soldering the fuse could easily pop the new one immediately. Ive made that mistake twice with these machines
i soldered one once and it survived but i used a heatsink clip to hold it in place while the motor was running. Risky tho
on mine the cover had a tiny lip at the front which needed to be twisted slightly to clear. Not a clip exactly but it will not just lift off in a straight line. Maybe thats what people mean by the cover is stuck?
yeah theres usually some geometry to it where you have to tilt the processor slightly to get it to pop off but theres no latch involved
last question i promise, if i find the brushes are worn is it worth replacing them on these or are they not a standard part you can source