Steamboat cooker dead, is it usually the fuse in the controller?

[Thomas Martinez]

More peoples experiencing steamboat and hot pot cooker issues where they just will not turn on?
In most cases, this is usualy on the controller side of the cooker, not the base that heat the pot.
If you take the cooker apart, you’ll mostly find just the heating element down in the pot. The fuse are inside the controller. Open the controller, find the fuse, and use a multimeter to test for continuity. If the multimeter does not indicate that the component is complete (blown fuse), then replace the fuse. This is usualy the issue, these cookers are notoriously simple in their function and design but people just tend to assume the heating element are the problem.

 

[Electric D]

9 times outta 10 its the thermal fuse on the element side actualy, not the controller fuse. People miss it cuz its tucked against the heating plate with a little metal clips. Controller fuse blowing usually means something downstream shorted.

 

[Inc]

Wait so are we talking the little glass cartridge type or the ceramic ones? I opened up a cheap induction one last year and it had a ceramic 10A in there which surprised me for how flimsy the rest of the build was.

 

[Envious Emu]

if it keep popping after replacement you got a shorted triac or a dying relay, dont keep slapping fuses in there

 

[Elegant Eel]

I had a Tefal one die on me last new years right before the family came over, was fuming. Pulled it apart and found a 5 cent thermal cutoff bonded directly to the heating element. Replaced it with one from the local electronics shop and it’s been working flawlessly for 3 more years now. I almost threw it out, my wife was already pricing replacements on shopee. Cookers are easy to fix once you take the time to open them up. The element is just a coil of nichrome wire and those last forever.

 

[Mic]

nah fuse is rarely the actual root cause

 

[Inc]

I had a Tefal one die on me last new years right before the family came over, was fuming. Pulled it apart and found a 5 cent thermal cutoff bonded directly to the heating element. Replaced it with one from the local electronics shop and it’s been working flawlessly for 3 more yea…

does anyone know if the thermal fuse rating is stamped on the body? i wanna know what temp these typically cutoff at before i go ordering replacements blind

 

[Electric D]

does anyone know if the thermal fuse rating is stamped on the body? i wanna know what temp these typically cutoff at before i go ordering replacements blind

yeah usually printed on it, 192c or 216c is what i see on hot plates at least. If its rubbed off, just find the wattage rating of the element and get a fuse just slightly above its operating temperature

 

[Tender Trout]

you literally cannot diagnose this from a forum post. Could be the switch contacts welded, could be a cracked solder joint on the board, could be the NTC sensor reading garbage and the MCU refusing to turn on. Stop telling people its definately the fuse when you havent seen the unit.